14 February 2010

Who's made it to this year's Polka Fest?

Checking in on the Polka Fest, Cedar, Michigan

evening walk, Cedar, Michigan

Of all the tiny towns sprinkled around the Leelanau Peninsula, Cedar has one of the bigger local festivals every summer in their Polka Fest. The way many rural areas lose a large portion of their kids after high school or college, it seems like some of these festivals serve as nothing more than a reunion for all those who've left home.

13 February 2010

Lake Michigan's bearish dunes

Sleeping Bear Dunes, Empire, Michigan

Sleeping Bear Dunes, Empire, Michigan

The prevailing winds off of Lake Michigan pile sand dunes up on top of already high glacial moraines making the dunes reach heights of over 400 feet straight out of the lake. This means many familiar beach functions like water gazing and sunbathing take place far removed from the lapping waves. It also means, for anyone running down to the water, a long, steep, very soft, thigh-burning, waterless hike back up. It's not unusual for the rangers to have to rescue people from below using jet skis.

12 February 2010

Cottonwood stands of Michigan and points west


All the way across the Great Plains and into the high country of Wyoming and Colorado, stands of cottonwood trees stretch along thousands of miles of river bottomlands. Seeing them, often camping out in their shade, and hearing their always-rustling leaves became one of the more consistent details of our trip last summer, and it began in Michigan, on the sand dunes in the wind coming off the big lake. There are occasional cottonwoods in the east, including the large lightning-scarred one in Margaret's yard outside the kitchen window. But there is something sturdy and comforting about being among the large western patches of them and as we headed back east, it was one thing I knew I'd miss.

11 February 2010

Empire beach, Lake Michigan

Empire beach, Lake Michigan

Empire beach, Lake Michigan

Just about everything anyone loves about beaches can be found in the upper Great Lakes: smooth soft sand, vast horizons, clear blue water, tiny strange sand bugs, gull footprints, the bubbling sand after a wave recedes. One thing not usually idolized however is the freezing-cold water of the lakes. It can make swimming something you have to "get over with" in order to lay out on the beach. For many locals however, the icy temperatures they grew up with translate to cleanliness. It means they get turned off by warmer southern waters since it feels "dirty". I think it's just a way to identify themselves with the land they're from...

10 February 2010

Michigan, July 2009

I'll begin the photo-blog style flash-back to last summer's road trip where I left off previously -in Michigan, before we set out onto the midwestern prairies. Staying in northern Michigan for a week visiting Jenifer's family allowed us to shift gears and sink right into so many wonderful clichés of summer including beaches, classic car shows, local festivals, canoeing & kayaking, sun-baked sand dunes, cool starry nights with distant coyotes howling, and -not least- ice cream...


Left to right: summer job at an ice cream shop, black cherry ice cream

31 January 2010

One of many reasons to love winter...

There are so many reasons to love winter in the northern hemisphere. One of them is that there are so many cloudy days which push our minds inward so we can reflect on the past and digest it a little further ...like a cow bringing up cud from one of its stomachs in order to chew and extract more nutritional value out of a meal from the recent past.

In this light I'm going to try to go back to last summer here and finish recounting our July ramble out west across the Great Plains.

09 January 2010

Thinking, or trying not to, during the dark months

Ice flowing down the Hudson River past Poughkeepsie, New York

The new year usually makes us compare where we are to where we thought we'd be from a year or decade ago. So, I'm not where I thought I'd be, but in the long run probably much better off.

I guess it's important to have plans and goals and work toward them. I guess it's important to be open to whatever comes and react to everything as a new opportunity.

...Now, how to live both ways at the same time? I think the answer is in that part of our brains where our minds aren't, like in an athlete who fails when he thinks too hard about what he's doing. It's probably as simple as thinking about and working on the future and being content in the present. If one side overwhelms the other, I suppose you're thinking too hard and need to lose your mind a bit.

Too much caution sometimes piles up and throws off that balance. From the wisdom of the Butthole Surfers, "It's better to regret something you have done than to regret something you haven't done."

01 January 2010

Cheers to a New Year

Sometimes I bother myself by looking at the past year from too narrow a focus and let myself get disappointed that I'm not studying Arabic in Damascus right now or something like that. Instead, I look back and see that I started the year in Budapest, and landed up back in New York where I've been for so long...

When I look at it from a better perspective, I see that in the end I got the ball rolling on several big long-held dreams for my life. Besides, I did a lot of traveling this year after all. After landing back in the States I visited Texas, Michigan (multiple times), Georgia, a wide swath of the Great Plains via Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota, Wyoming, Colorado, Kansas and Missouri, and saw more of the Northeast that I hadn't seen in my previous nine years here. And along the way Jen and I spent a great many days with people we love but don't get to see very often. Also, we got to know Margaret (who we live with) and her big, dynamic family.
Scenes from Margaret's house, New Year's Eve, 2009

In the meantime, landing back here has given me a breather needed to start working on several tracks which will hopefully pay off for a long time to come. Cheers to a new year, new opportunities to follow long-held dreams, and for the immediate-term, finally getting back to regularly updating this blog!!

16 September 2009

A pretty blank slate.


What is it about water, by itself, that can draw people just to look at it? It's obvious why human geography has largely organized along the coast lines and major water courses of the world, and it's beyond obvious why it's so precious to us as living bodies. But why are we drawn to it as a place to stare off into? Perhaps a more interesting question: when there's a crowd of people staring off at the horizon from an overlook built expressly for the purpose of staring out over an empty sea, what is going on inside each person's mind?

If one lets it, it can be restoring to watch the open water for a long time, just as it can to watch a fireplace. It's refreshing whether you catch up with and order all the jumbled thoughts that pile up in our heads, or whether you go someplace new in your head. I guess I wonder if this is what people are mostly doing, and if so, whether they are aware of it.

14 September 2009

Almost an island

I've always been curious and befuddled by Michigan, though I've never been able to articulate why. I remain perplexed despite having previously lived there for over eight years.


It's in the middle of a large continent, but it's surrounded by huge inland seas. It's culturally conservatively midwestern, yet also very coastal. Perhaps some of the trouble lies in that having grown up in the US, we're conditioned to stereotype coastal culture as liberal, stylish and worldly compared to an insulated, provincial continental interior.


So, life there is steeped in visuals of vast sand beaches, wooden ship steering wheels and lighthouses as home decor, sport boats, fishing vessels, giant ore tankers, gulls, huge sand dunes covered with beach grass and covering ghost forests, and ever-present horizons of open sea. Now add to that a deep-running fondness for cozy pastel sweatshirts and flannel, fleece slippers, an ingrained deer-hunting culture revolving around bait piles, big, square, American-made minivans and trucks, and a decent peppering of conservative religiosity, and you have a unique culture I've only ever seen in Michigan. Occasional whiffs of preppy looks or aspirations remind me of New England, though perhaps only a movie version of New England... Of course stereotypes never hold up upon any kind of examination, but for that matter neither do most people's dearly held self-identity.


On the surface, none of the above geographic or cultural elements should seem to be at odds with another (and likely match quite perfectly in the mind of any given reader); nevertheless, every time I go back I have to adjust my mental map. I can't shake my surprise that there are all those huge seas all around me there.