31 August 2008

"...just don't call it ping pong"

Every four years around the Olympics somebody writes an article in the U.S. about how table tennis is taken seriously in the rest of the world. The angle is usually on assuring Americans accustomed to it being a toss-off game relegated to the basement that it can be taken seriously as an Olympic sport.

Here's another indication of its relative status in Europe: a section in the Varosliget (city park) dedicated to about nine table tennis tables, all of which were taken.

Meeting the neighbors in the dark

I finally met most of the neighbors in our building last week when our power went out. As it was around 11:00PM, it was hard to tell if the outage was limited to our apartment or shared by the whole building. When the stairwell lights, which turn off automatically after a minute, repeatedly turned back on, it became obvious that others were out of their apartments, but also that some of the building still had power.

I went out and talked to the woman from the floor above ours, who as it turns out is the only other English speaker in the building (there are seven apartments). Standing there in her nightgown and a windbreaker, she recruited me to join her and another woman to go look at the main fuzebox on the outside of the building. We jiggled loose the screwdriver holding the latch shut, and as she reached in to flick the fuze, she hesitated and said, "No, you do it!", chuckling sheepishly. I flicked it... and nothing happened (but I fulfilled my duty as the sucker newcomer).

I tagged along for the next 45 minutes while the three of us went to other apartments to find out the extent of the outage and round up phone numbers for the building maintenance and try to arrange an electrician to come over. At least, that's what I think was happening, because all I had to go on were the tones of voices and body language. Otherwise I might as well have been deaf. The Hungarian language doesn't seem to have many changes in inflection. It all sounds like run-on sentences with moderate urgency.

Nevertheless, I finally got to introduce myself to several people I've passed in the stairwell a few times in the past only to mumble a fake greeting after they'd said "jonopot" to me. I now know I could've said jonopot back, but until now I'd just sort of fake it with a mumbled "hello". "Hallo" by the way, seems to be how Hungarians say good-bye.

Anyway, Eva from upstairs and I were able to chat a bit in the dark and reassure each other that no, we don't make too much noise for the other (her son used to dribble a ball on their floor, but she's since stopped him). The next morning when all of the power was restored except for our apartment, she made herself late for church to make arrangements for the building's electricians to come over for us. It turns out the wires in the wall fried, and they needed to chop a hole in the wall to replace them.

30 August 2008

When did "unleashed" come to mean wild?

This is something I've been seeing a lot -dogs patiently waiting outside of stores, unleashed, while their owners go shopping. I've also been seeing people training their dogs off-leash a number of times while I'm sitting in a park somewhere. I'm trying hard not to make too many assumptions here, but maybe there's a connection.

29 August 2008

Bactrian on the boulevard

     

It is thought that the Magyar tribes that settled Hungary over a thousand years ago came from Central Asia, and I keep seeing little clues of this around town. (If this camel had been simply tethered to a tree on Andrassy ut, it wouldn't have been quite the spectacle it was in an abandoned trailer)

Paradicsom paradox

I'm noticing something with produce here that's exemplified by the tomatoes. They aren't always pretty. They're often very tender, with smashed ones on the bottom of any pile. Squeeze them and they all feel ripe with VERY few exceptions. The object when shopping for them is to pick the ones that aren't already split open.

Contrast this with shopping for them in grocery stores in the US, where the object is to select the ones that aren't pale and hard. When you can squeeze them a little and pretend they're ripe, it's time to eat. There's that magical brief window in the summer when they truly are ripe and local and it's like a celebration where you buy all you can and gorge. The rest of the year it's better to stick with the canned ones.

So far in my six weeks in Hungary, that peak season shows no signs of letting up. Things I've read about the U.S. food industry imply the priority of growers is on the structure of the produce and its survivability after being trucked across the country as well as how it looks in the grocery store. This seems to be at the expense of flavor. 

Last year I read something about the Uglyripe, a tomato bred for flavor instead of appearance that was just becoming available in Kingston, NY grocery stores. The Florida Tomato Committee was stopping the growers of the Uglyripe from being able to export their tomatoes out of Florida, where most of the US's tomatoes are grown in the winter. There was no accounting for flavor in the grading standards they set and enforced, only appearance. It's no wonder I never found any joy in fresh tomatoes and I learned to count on canned tomatoes 11 months a year.

Thinking of this now as I eat more tomatoes than I have in my life makes me curious to know more about where the produce in Budapest comes from, and where the power lies on the food chain here and what the politics are behind it.

28 August 2008

Another Hungary visitor

We had a visit by another nighttime guest. It was bigger than the last two, and wanted to land. The curtains were partially obscuring the windows this time as earlier in the day I was trying to keep the sun from heating up the place. Now they were keeping the bat from getting back out easily. Eventually it left, but not before leaving behind all of the bloodsuckers that have been munching us at night.

Mosquitos, that is.

25 August 2008

23 August 2008

Where fireworks come from

  
The most memorable part of the fireworks were the large group of dancers on a stage in front of the Chain Bridge whose stomping dance and flailing costumes seemed to rise and fall with the show and intensified along with the grand finale. No doubt the sky-full of explosions was pushing the dancers, but it looked to me like it was the other way around.

22 August 2008

Late afternoon holiday lull


The woman in front of us kept nodding off during the late afternoon outdoor mass which precedes the parading of St. Istvan's hand. It had been a long, full day already, but I attribute her plight more to the murmur of the monotone chanting typical of any Catholic mass.

When we went back down to the riverbank we discovered that others had a better idea for dealing with the heat and tired legs. 
    

We're still recovering

  
Over the course of the holiday, as we'd walk from one part of the city to another, the amount of ongoing activity made my head spin. An air race over the Danube, multiple fly-overs of military planes, acrobatic planes, acrobatic helicopters, dancers dancing the dances from the era of St. Istvan, reenactments of the crafts of the era, the bakers guild taking up a block selling and baking various breads...

We went home for a break during the hottest part of the day, and when we returned the dancers were still stomping, the bakers were still baking, and the planes were still tumbling. We had dinners of grilled meats and as afternoon turned into evening and the dancers were going back up onto the stage for more, the groaning of yet another or plane still tumbled through the sky behind Parliament, there were more and more people sprawling on the lawns among the flower beds. The amount and endurance of the constant activity was impressive.
    

Chasing the parade

  
St. Stephen's day was a long, hot, sun-baked day in Budapest. We chased the military bands marching up Andrassy Avenue (At 9AM we were about 15 minutes late, but about five blocks behind the drums, so we leap-frogged them by hopping on the subway). After some anticipation waiting with crowds packed against the fences erected around Hosok ter (Hero's Square) we watched a formation of soldiers tossing and twirling rifles to the accompaniment of Survivor's "Burning Heart" (from Rocky IV) being broadcast over loudspeakers. 

This last fact had us cringing and I was a little afraid that the expression of national pride might end up seeming cute rather than awe inspiring. Then I noticed the formation of eight marching in perfect unison with a forward step I hadn't seen before; the thrill fought through against the accompaniment.

19 August 2008

St. Stephen's eve

In order to simmer down the pagans prone to raiding and form a proper country, King Stephen (now Szent Istvan) Christianized and organized the wild bunches in the 11th century. Hungary's founding is therefor attributed to him. A dream he had early on is commemorated nearly a hundred feet up on a pillar in Hossuth ter (Hero's Square). In it, he's being crowned by the Archangel Gabriel.  

As I understand it, 45 years after he died his body was exhumed to be cannonized, only to discover that his right hand was still fresh, so they took it off. To this day it's kept in St. Stephen's Basilica, and tomorrow the "Holy Right" will be paraded outside as it is each year for the national holiday, St. Stephen's Day.

Everything is buzzing in anticipation of Hungary's version of the 4th. They figure town will be hopping because everyone is around due to it falling mid-week this year. Military marches, majorettes, the Lajos Kassai Horseback Archers, and oxen, pigs and poultry roasted over open fire, and of course, fireworks (or as I read in one paper, "sparkles").  We'll try to hit as much as we can.  I'm looking forward to the Szatmari plum cake made with plum brandy.

18 August 2008

Surprise eclipse

This past weekend we were wandering along the Szechenyi Lanchid (Chain Bridge, pictured), which is closed to vehicles on summer weekends for the Summer on the Chain Bridge Festival. We'd gone a few times over the last couple of weeks just to eat the food, listen to music, drink beer, walk the bridge and look at the water, though mostly just to join the Budapesters outside in the summer for whatever excuse.

This time we'd walked from further up the banks of the Danube where we'd seen a full moon over some of the gothic buildings and so had been taking pictures. Since we'd noticed this earlier, we were  stunned to be browsing the booths on the bridge and suddenly catch that the moon was now a crescent, only an hour later!

I've never seen an eclipse by accident before, and it was made all the more surreal by the fact that no one around seemed to be aware of it. (Though we did overhear some Italians say something that included "la luna")  It was a bizarre and unsettling feeling at once.
                                

17 August 2008

Hungarian park sleepers

I'm noticing that in the parks throughout the city, people love to nap in numbers I haven't seen before. I'll try not to speculate yet about what this says about the Hungarian character or the quality of life in Budapest or whatever, but all types of people  seem to love to enjoy beautiful summer days by going out in the parks and drifting off in the grass under the sun or a tree. The parks might be tiny, surrounded by buildings and filled with people, or the sprawling 300-acre Varosliget (City Park) or 1.5-mile long Margit-sziget (Margaret Island) in the middle of the Danube, despite all of the people around (or perhaps because of them) people love to sleep outdoors. 
Admit it: you would too.

Snoring on display
















This man was snoring so deeply, his cheeks were puffing out and vibrating as he exhaled. He retained his dignity however,with his smart shoes and by keeping his shirt tucked in.

City park kolbasz


On our way into Varosliget (City Park) yesterday, we stopped at a vendor and bought some fairly cheap wine (no prohibition on alcohol in public parks here!) and two kolbaszok. Judging by the way the teen lounging in the booth grudgingly lifted her feet off the counter to get up and grab the sausages for me, we weren't expecting much once we sat down in the park. 

The moment we cut off a slice and started to chew our eyes opened wide. The sausage was so fresh and soft and meaty; I've never had a kolbasz that tasted like this. There was little of the garlic and fennel that so often overwhelms keilbasa I've had in the US. Here the flavors were straightforward and intense. The heat was tempered, and limited to the sweet heat provided by major paprika. It was mostly a giant punch of concentrated beefy/porkiness. It's been noticeable that meat here in general has a slight gaminess that adds intensity and richness but hasn't yet been so strong as to be off-putting to this palatte so used to blander meats. That same added strength was certainly present here.

Ultimately, we just found ouselves eating slowly, savoring every bite, almost with our eyes closed.

15 August 2008

The sphinx at the opera house.

  What mystery does she guard?


          Oooh!

Those exciting currency markets!

I just came back from paying the rent for our second month here. Our rent is valued in Euros, but we can pay in Hungarian Forint(HUF) based on the official conversion of the day. Because of the bounce over the last month in the value of the dollar against the Euro and HUF (which according to the NYTimes is due to weakening in the rest of the world's economy to match the US's) we paid about USD$66.00 less than we did a month ago! (A month ago the dollar was at the bottom of a looong decline against the Euro)

There's a lot that's unsettled about the economy in the US and Europe right now, and this makes those currency charts exciting and personal to watch like they haven't been before. 

14 August 2008

OMG Honeydew!

Forget all those honeydews you just tolerate as you're eating them. Maybe they just make the fruit salad look bigger, they make you feel healthy, or on rare occasions you win the lottery and get one that's pretty good.

I didn't know what kind of melon this was when I pointed to it at the market, but once home we were knocked over. Just like any other unpretty melon on the outside, not overly soft yet. But it was so intense and sugar sweet and wet-juicy we had to hold our head over the bowl while we slurped it. I always USED to think it had a ridiculous name. It's my favorite fruit now.

12 August 2008

Kossuth ter

Across from the Hungarian Parliament Building in Kossuth ter stands Lajos Kossuth, the leader of the 1848 revolution against the Habsburgs, heroically calling the nation to arms. He overcomes the viewer with his power and decisive authority. 

...until a fat pigeon is comforted by his gentle offer. He now becomes a caring man of fellow creatures a la Uncle Remus. Hear the whistle.

11 August 2008

Trollybuses

Wanting to cross the street, if you see one roaring at you, step back and wait. That's when you are close enough to hear the light-saber noises coming from their powerlines and witness the trail of sparks and hope they don't shower your head.

09 August 2008

Hungry visitor

Sitting on the couch late last night I saw a bird fly into the living room and swoop into the bedroom. I often hear pigeons right outside the windows flapping wings and cooing, and wondered if they would ever come in. 

It swooped out again and down the hallway, which was when we recognized it was a bat about the size of a pigeon. This made sense since it was 2AM. In a way it was a relief knowing it wouldn't be blindly bumping into the walls and hurt itself panicking. It flew up and down the hall several times, making a couple of circles in the living room before expertly leaving our cave. 

Hopefully it took a few flies with it.

08 August 2008

Nem beszelek magyarul.

I saw two men communicating across the street from each other today. They were speaking in elevated tones and thrusting their hands around sort of passionately. Were they arguing? -or agreeing about something mutually unsatisfactory? I don't know

I'm insulated from so much because of the language barrier, although I've starting to erode that. Last night I started to actively study the noises people keep spilling at me since my language tapes arrived. It's a fog I'll gladly step out of, but I have to admit the insulation has sometimes been relaxing.

06 August 2008

Urban picnic food

It's taking a while to learn how to eat within our budget. ...or it's just been too easy to keep eating takeout with so many cheap options close by that allow us to sit at a sidewalk table in the company of dogs, pigeons and other people. With several doner kebap places near home,600-forint($4) gyros have become a bit of a staple. Then there are places that specialize in a type of thick soup/stew that I haven't encountered anywhere else called fozelek. As I understand it, it's more or less made of vegetable that's been cooked into a puree and is eaten with croquets of all sorts. Don't quote me about this one. I'll get back to it in a later post after I figure it out a little better, but we do keep going back to Fozelekfalo Etelbar because it's so interesting and the whole cross section of Hungarians seem to be eating there. 

Anyway, I think I'll be able to get us back within our budget now that I found the Hold utca Market for fresh food about ten-minutes' walk from home. Yesterday I bought a half-watermelon for 100 forint (65 cents).

04 August 2008

Waiting at the Customs chute

I went to the airport yesterday to meet Jenifer getting off her flight. With a minor delay and flights from New York, Kiev and Amman, Jordan funneling through Customs all at once, the waiting crowd and I ended up standing in the meeting area for about an hour and a half. It was actually quite a blast. Nervous excitement locked the room with many choked-up and pacing, cameras hanging around their necks. The doors which arriving passengers emerge from slide open from a mirrored wall, and then they walk down a runway created by railings, past all of the waiting people, one or a group of whom would be gasping and waving for the person. It's dramatic. Every couple minutes the doors slide apart and out pokes... a cart of suitcases. Pushed by... _______! 

The hero does a victory march down the runway as if the whole crowd was clapping for them. Some couldn't wait to get that far, hugging and crying over the railing. Once, a mother and her young son and daughter came through the stage-curtain doors and the kids spotted their father standing next to me and made a bee-line through the railing, in fast-forward, plowing into him kissing and hugging and crying. It was a bigger emotional ride than many movies.

Coming together, after who-knows-how-long, reminds people how dangerous the wide world can feel and to be safe at home just means having your family together again.

02 August 2008

The electricians


The electricians came to fix the bathroom yesterday. Perhaps it was because I've been alone for so long, but it was like they brought a little party. The two of them bounded in and it seemed like they were joking and laughing the whole time. We played charades to communicate as they spoke no English and of course I'm still at "yes" "no" and "thankyou" with Hungarian. 

They found the other fuse box 12 feet up by the ceiling, so had to drag my desk over to balance their ladder on top. After their little whirlwind left, I found that they had replaced a burnt out light bulb in another room, and my newspaper that had been spread out to prevent scratching the desktop had been reassembled in order and tucked away.